- Separate the Eggs into two bowls, whisk the egg whites till they form soft peaks. In the Egg yolks add the remaining ingredients and whisk.
- Fold the mixture into the egg whites.
- Heat a frying pan to a medium/high heat, adding a little oil to the pan to stop sticking.
- Place tablespoonfuls of the mixture into the pan, leave a few mins and flip. Cook until done.
Makes approx. 10 small pancakes
Everyone will do it at some point in their life, get to the crag and realise that they forgot to pick up their harness when they were packing their climbing stuff in the morning. Most people would just give up at this point, go home to fetch it or change their plans for the day, but if you have 1, (ideally 2), 120cm slings to hand why not make a sling harness!
1 Sling Harness
Simple and easy to make, however can slip down if theres not a continuous pull upwards making it ineffective. If you have a small waist like mine a 120cm will work perfectly. To make pass the sling around your back and bring both ends to the front. While holding these reach between your legs and grab the lower loop, bring this between your legs and clip everything together with a screwgate 'biner.
If you have a slightly wider waist use a bigger sling, but when you pull the loop through your legs tie an isolating knot, (overhand will do), to make it tight and shove the excess away down the side of the waist loops. Because this has to be weighted upwards to work it only really works for abseiling or seconding.
2 Sling Harness
This one works much better than the other one and a friend has actually used this one when he's forgot his harness. To make take one 120 sling and find the centre, to do this double up and shuffle the two ends until the sown part is in the middle. Tie a overhand each side of the sown part and try on your legs. I find that tying another overhand on each side makes it fit my legs perfectly.
Next take the other 120 sling and pass it around your back above your hip bones, as you would with a normal harness. Tie both ends together with half a reef knot, passing one end through to other to finish it off. This allows you to pull it tighter and still easy to remove. Then tie another overhand to make a loop. Pass a 'biner through this loop and the leg loop and there you go a harness. It's not the most comfortable thing in the world and you wouldn't really want to fall on it!
Tie in to the screwgate for both these harness.
Both of these would be more comfortable with thicker slings, I just used what I had to hand. I would not suggest falling off wearing one of these but if you had nothing else to hand they'll work.
You'll never have to abandon a day's climbing again!
After doing maintenance at indoor walls for 2 years on a Wednesday evening after all the clubs I thought i’d share with you how I care for climbing hardware, (e.g: Karabiners, Belay devices, ect). The centres I've worked at used to carry out weekly, monthly and yearly checks depending on usage and the specific item. I would recommend giving your gear a casual check every now and then and a thorough check every so often, depending on how often you climb! Everything below should help with a thorough check, remember your life depends on the gear, don’t skimp on the checks.
Give all ATC type devices a visual check looking for anything that doesn’t seem right, (cracks, chips, erosion). Feel around the head of the device where the rope rubs to make sure that there are no sharp edges, and wear isn’t too great.
Grigri’s you want to give them a wipe inside with so tissue to get the built up fibres out. Then check for sharp edges where the rope runs and make sure the front opens and closes smoothly on its pivot. You also want to push the handle part forwards to make sure its still smooth and doesn't stick.
Figure of Eight:
Same checks as above for ATC.
Same visual check, then you want to check the cables, if they are visible as on the DMM dragons for any damage. Moving down the cam you want to make sure it has a smooth action and that all the lobes move as one. Checking the slings the same as for Hex’s.
Important if you climb on Sea cliffs that you wash everything that you used in fresh water and allow to dry in a shaded place, not in direct sun. This ought to really be done even if they get did not get wet as there is still salt in the air. I get lazy though and wash kit every so often when climbing on sea cliffs unless something got wet!.
This is just a guide as to what I check. I do not accept responsibly for any damage or injury resulted from following it.
Prusik Uses -
* To Ascend a fixed rope
* As a backup while abseiling
* In rescue scenarios (not covered here)
* Help when dealing with heavy loads (not covered here)
Abseiling With a Prusik
To abseil with a standard belay plate and Prusik I thread the rope you're going to ab with into the belay plate as if you where going to belay with it. Then do a French prusik underneath, put a screw gate karabiner on the end of the loop and clip it to the inside of your leg loop. Weight and make sure prusik does not touch the belay plate as if it does it will not engage. If it does extend your belay plate from your harness using a short (60cm) sling, larks footed to your abseil/belay loop at one end, belay plate at the other.
Ascending The Rope
To ascend clip one kleimheist or ordinary prusik directly to your abseil/belay loop on your harness using a screwgate, then put another kleimheist above with another screwgate attached, but this time put a 120cm sling or 240cm halved into the screwgate. Use the sling to stand up on the top prusik to release the weight off the one connected directly to you, slide it up, re-weight and slide the foot one up. Repeat process until you get where you need to be!
As a backup if your ascending a long distance put knots in the rope below the prusik so that if the knot does not engage you won't slip all the way to the bottom.
Hopefully I have covered most things, feel free to comment below! :)