Monday saw me driving up to Aviemore to meet up with some friends to get out winter mixed climbing in the Scottish Cairngorms. Arriving at about 9pm went to sleep psyched to get out the next day.
Waking up to a rather warm climate of 4 degrees, not really ideal, we headed out anyway. Heading for Coire An T-Sneachda to climb ‘The Message IV, 6’. It being my first time out, I just followed all day while my friends did the leading, still getting used to using axes and crampons effectively. The conditions where not ideal, with the warm weather causing the melting snow and ice to get blown into your face as you are climbing. With the crux being a step around and over a bulge, while the dripping cold water was blowing straight into your face. Topped out and started the walk back down to the car at the ski car park, to head back into town for a warm drink and food.
Waking up to a rather warm climate of 4 degrees, not really ideal, we headed out anyway. Heading for Coire An T-Sneachda to climb ‘The Message IV, 6’. It being my first time out, I just followed all day while my friends did the leading, still getting used to using axes and crampons effectively. The conditions where not ideal, with the warm weather causing the melting snow and ice to get blown into your face as you are climbing. With the crux being a step around and over a bulge, while the dripping cold water was blowing straight into your face. Topped out and started the walk back down to the car at the ski car park, to head back into town for a warm drink and food.
Author Approaching 'The Message'
The second day started off being alot colder with the temperature around 2 degrees at our bunkhouse and below zero at the car park. Today we headed to Coire An Lochain for me to do my first lead, Ewen Buttress III 4. The route was really nice, with the conditions being alot more wintry and no dripping water to contend with! I was allowed to lead the whole route, only getting stuck on one bit, took me a while to figure out how to get past, only to find out about 2 metres right was alot easier! Topped out the route at about 2, feeling good, even though i was told i was being a little slow near the top
Author On Ewen Buttress
The third and last day before my friends went back down south saw us back at Coire An T-Sneachda, with there being four of us today. John’s friend and I went to do ‘Invernookie III 4’ and the other two went to do Sterling Bomber. We swing led Invernookie with me ending up doing the harder bit. Although with my reach i could use loads of hooks and didn’t feel too hard. Being quicker this time we topped out at just gone one and headed back down via Fiacaill Ridge to wait for the others in the ski car park cafe.
View from cave belay near the top of Invernookie
Overall its been a awesome few days, lead my first winter route, leant alot and done some distance. Got a few days to myself now before I’m booked onto the Scottish Conville Trust Mountaineering Course on Tuesday/Wednesday Next week, looking forward to that and learning more!
Follow me on Instagram to see cool pictures and see what i’ve been up to more regularly!
Instagram: @Climbing_Weldon
Follow me on Instagram to see cool pictures and see what i’ve been up to more regularly!
Instagram: @Climbing_Weldon
View over Loch Morlich while writing this blog.
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