After moving down to Swanage for the Summer season a few months ago I've been out climbing on the Swanage Limestone as much as possible around work time. The rock here is pretty loose in places, (well mostly everywhere), but in between the loose rock there is some really nice routes. With the pretty rubbish weather we've had this week it looks like the weekend is going to be pretty good so a perfect opportunity to make a day/weekend trip to Swanage! Today I thought i'd talk about some of my favourite routes at Subluminal.
So Subluminal is a sea cliff crag just outside Swanage and is a short walk from Durlston Car Park, making it the ideal venue for the late lay-ins or lazy climber. There is plenty of belay stakes at the top of the crag to abseil off and to use as anchors for bringing up your second as the gear on the top is a little sparse. You’ll need about 30metres of static rope to get into all the routes here.
Its also a brilliant introduction to sea cliff climbing as most of the routes are start on a giant ledge a couple of metres above the sea, so even if the sea is a little choppy you should still stay dry! A method I use for checking if the rock is going to be dry is if the road is wet, the rock prob still be!
Easier Routes
High Street D - Pretty good easy route and most peoples first lead. Lots of ledges to stand on. Few loose blocks but they’re pretty solid. Good warmup if you leave your approach shoes on. Usually used as the main abseil point.
Pedestal Crack D - Another route with lots of ledges but not as nice as High Street, climbing up next to a big freestanding chunk of rock.
Gangway S - One of my favourite climbs, bit of an interesting start as quite slippery and next to a gap in the ledge, but nice further up!
Med Routes
Second Corner S 4a - Getting quite polished now and has a tricky move about half way up, but a nice climb.
First Corner S 4b - Quite tricky in places, cams come in handy here and can be laced with as much gear as possible, the top is the best climbing.
Balcony HS - Interesting route which goes around a block sticking out of the rock, the hardest move is getting the jug around the corner of the block. Cams good for underneath the block in the horizontal crack.
Station Road HS 4b - Next to High Street, quite easy but polished in places, lots of gear.
Harder Routes
Freda VS 4c/5a - An absolute classic that most be done if you go climbing here! Easy to find as its the crack near the Rusty Peg. Really nice climbing all the way up, start is the difficult bit.
Spread-eagle VS 5a - Strange finish and don’t do what I did the first time I climbed it and only take your approach shoes down as smearing is needed!
Stroof E1 - Another classic which must be climbed, has one difficult move at about 3/4 height in the crack. Easy start and the gear isn’t bad!
As a guide book you’ll need the Climber’s Club Swanage Guide for a complete list of all the routes, Rockfax is only selected. As abseil is needed to get into all the routes make sure you know what you're doing before you turn up, and bring an abseil rope as there's nothing more embarrassing than getting your lead rope stuck when pulling it down after abbing off it.
Get out and climb some routes!
So Subluminal is a sea cliff crag just outside Swanage and is a short walk from Durlston Car Park, making it the ideal venue for the late lay-ins or lazy climber. There is plenty of belay stakes at the top of the crag to abseil off and to use as anchors for bringing up your second as the gear on the top is a little sparse. You’ll need about 30metres of static rope to get into all the routes here.
Its also a brilliant introduction to sea cliff climbing as most of the routes are start on a giant ledge a couple of metres above the sea, so even if the sea is a little choppy you should still stay dry! A method I use for checking if the rock is going to be dry is if the road is wet, the rock prob still be!
Easier Routes
High Street D - Pretty good easy route and most peoples first lead. Lots of ledges to stand on. Few loose blocks but they’re pretty solid. Good warmup if you leave your approach shoes on. Usually used as the main abseil point.
Pedestal Crack D - Another route with lots of ledges but not as nice as High Street, climbing up next to a big freestanding chunk of rock.
Gangway S - One of my favourite climbs, bit of an interesting start as quite slippery and next to a gap in the ledge, but nice further up!
Med Routes
Second Corner S 4a - Getting quite polished now and has a tricky move about half way up, but a nice climb.
First Corner S 4b - Quite tricky in places, cams come in handy here and can be laced with as much gear as possible, the top is the best climbing.
Balcony HS - Interesting route which goes around a block sticking out of the rock, the hardest move is getting the jug around the corner of the block. Cams good for underneath the block in the horizontal crack.
Station Road HS 4b - Next to High Street, quite easy but polished in places, lots of gear.
Harder Routes
Freda VS 4c/5a - An absolute classic that most be done if you go climbing here! Easy to find as its the crack near the Rusty Peg. Really nice climbing all the way up, start is the difficult bit.
Spread-eagle VS 5a - Strange finish and don’t do what I did the first time I climbed it and only take your approach shoes down as smearing is needed!
Stroof E1 - Another classic which must be climbed, has one difficult move at about 3/4 height in the crack. Easy start and the gear isn’t bad!
As a guide book you’ll need the Climber’s Club Swanage Guide for a complete list of all the routes, Rockfax is only selected. As abseil is needed to get into all the routes make sure you know what you're doing before you turn up, and bring an abseil rope as there's nothing more embarrassing than getting your lead rope stuck when pulling it down after abbing off it.
Get out and climb some routes!
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