Climbing In North Wales

Author on top of Tryfan after East Face

Getting a few days off work, I've spent the last 3 days climbing in North Wales and had my birthday, so the blog has suffered! I thought i'd share what I got up to over the last few days to make up for the shortage in posts. Was supposed to be walking to get some QMD's, (quality mountain days), in but weather was just too good.
After setting off from Swanage at 5:30 in the morning on bank holiday Monday to get there for lunch timeish. The journey was pretty good, only hitting traffic heading into Snowdonia National Park. Met up with my climbing partner for the next few days and headed off to the moelwyns.

We decided to go to Craig y Clipiau where the white slab makes some nice climbing, with the steeper exits making a nice contrast. My favourite route here was defiantly Eagle Finish VS 4c, which went across nice pockets to a big overhanging spike, where the exposure was nice, (shame I didn't get a photo), Joe said it looked impressive.

Not arriving at the crag till 2, we walked back down at about 7, taking the longer route through the disused quarry. Even managed to get a picture of this spruce in the quarried rock.

The next day we went to the East face of Tryfan. The usual long walk in, we did Grooved Arete. Me leading on the 5th pitch I decided the arete on the right looked really nice. So followed it up to the 7th belay in my approach shoes. Nice climbing up the arete, on looking in the guide books believe its a new route too. There is a massive flake near the top which sounds quite loose but awesome positive holds on the arete.

Getting to the belay below the 7th pitch at the same time as the group ahead which had followed the proper route. Causing some tangling at the belay. Was really windy on the top too, making the last 2 pitches and sitting on the top of tryfan interesting! (Pic at top of post)

The final day before coming home was just as nice as the other two and seem as my friend, Joe, had not been to Idwal before we went to do Tennis Shoe. Lovely climbing on the slabs, even if some of the route was very polished!
Had an awesome few days in Wales. Brilliant company and nice climbing. Weather defiantly made up for the miserable weather that I had last time I was there.