Cornwall Trip

Bosigran crag top view

With a few days off work, and catching the last of the summer weather I headed to Cornwall for my first experience on Cornish granite with my friend Joe. The plan was to visit two classic climbing areas, (one on each day), Sennen the first day, then Bosigran the next. Hopefully also to climb something hard while we where there.
Arriving late Tuesday evening to the camp site, (upsetting the owner), we pitched the tent and went to sleep. During the night it rained heavily. When the alarm went off we both decided to get some more sleep hoping that a late morning start will have allowed the rock to dry and for us both to catch up on some sleep.

Arriving at Sennen just before 12 we seem to have timed it perfectly, although a few wet patches remained it was mostly dry. We started the day off with a VS which the guide book described as juggy called Monday Face. Joe then climbed the classic Demo Route, which goes up the face of a wall and over a roof, defiantly a classic, with some really nice bits of climbing. 
Next was what the guide book described as a brilliant intro to cornish cracks, called Vertical Crack. It turned out to be quite easy. Following a layback crack and being in the corner allowed you to bridge all the way up.
After a little advice from the locals I found my hard route. Gillan E3 5c, which is a face climb, on mostly foot friction, but really nice climbing. Incorporating a run out slopper start, into a undercut finger pocket about halfway up, near the best piece of gear. The top 1/4 was a flaring crack going up to a nice belay ledge. Awesome route which required a calm head and trust in friction.
To finish the day my friend lead what is probably the easiest multi pitch VS ive ever done called Hayloft. With me leading the only difficult bit which was a tight chimney rock over at the top.

Gillian E3 5c, author building belay at the top

During the night it rained again, luckily not as heavy though, and with no time to wait for stuff to dry in the morning, (as we where driving back that afternoon), we headed to Bosigran for a day of multipitch. On getting to the bottom of the crag there was wet patches as the sun had yet to reach most of the cliff. But not letting this deter us we set off up the first route of the day. A nice VS called Anvil Chorus. I lead the difficult pitch which was a full on layback flake followed by a traverse into the 3rd belay. We carried on climbing some more VS, doing Venusberg, Little Brown Jug and then nice HS called Doorpost.
The quality of the climbing continued through out the day, with awesome routes, some in a good level of exposure. Unfortunately we had to leave late afternoon to be back in Dorset for work the next day.

Joe and Author at a Belay on Bosigran

As a whole the cornwall trip was brilliant and I will definitely be returning. The granite is solid with lots of friction, in a beautiful cliff setting. We had lovely weather during the days we were there.
​I don't think we climbed one route that we thought wasn't nice!
Next trip Fontainebleau........ :)