Arriving late Tuesday evening to the camp site, (upsetting the owner), we pitched the tent and went to sleep. During the night it rained heavily. When the alarm went off we both decided to get some more sleep hoping that a late morning start will have allowed the rock to dry and for us both to catch up on some sleep.
Next was what the guide book described as a brilliant intro to cornish cracks, called Vertical Crack. It turned out to be quite easy. Following a layback crack and being in the corner allowed you to bridge all the way up.
After a little advice from the locals I found my hard route. Gillan E3 5c, which is a face climb, on mostly foot friction, but really nice climbing. Incorporating a run out slopper start, into a undercut finger pocket about halfway up, near the best piece of gear. The top 1/4 was a flaring crack going up to a nice belay ledge. Awesome route which required a calm head and trust in friction.
To finish the day my friend lead what is probably the easiest multi pitch VS ive ever done called Hayloft. With me leading the only difficult bit which was a tight chimney rock over at the top.
The quality of the climbing continued through out the day, with awesome routes, some in a good level of exposure. Unfortunately we had to leave late afternoon to be back in Dorset for work the next day.
I don't think we climbed one route that we thought wasn't nice!
Next trip Fontainebleau........ :)