Fairy Cave
Bit of a change from the usual rural, unspoilt landscape that usually features in this blog. Fairy cave is an old quarry in Somerset, with walls of Limestone, mostly slabs. It's been on my list of places that I've wanted to visit for a while, and with one of my mates now at University in Bristol and with my time living down South coming to an end we went last week.
Took me and Joe an hour and a half to get from Dorset to Fairy cave and we met up with some of my friends, Matt, Dom and Dom's flat mate, James there. Arriving at about 10:30, it was colder than I had expected. With how the quarry is positioned the walls are mostly always in the shade. Still psyched to climb I racked up for the first route of the day, which happened to be an awesome slab E2 up some solid, if slightly dirty limestone called Lumbar Puncture, (may have got a bit too excited and run it out quite a bit....).
Took me and Joe an hour and a half to get from Dorset to Fairy cave and we met up with some of my friends, Matt, Dom and Dom's flat mate, James there. Arriving at about 10:30, it was colder than I had expected. With how the quarry is positioned the walls are mostly always in the shade. Still psyched to climb I racked up for the first route of the day, which happened to be an awesome slab E2 up some solid, if slightly dirty limestone called Lumbar Puncture, (may have got a bit too excited and run it out quite a bit....).
Joe Leading his first proper E1!
Next jumped on another E2 next door called Epic-dural. Again awesome climbing up slabs. Was amazed how unpolished they were! The rock was really nice.
Joe then got on what seemed like the scariest route of the day, an E1 near Rob's crack called Smell the Glove. Lots of run out at the start and traversing across on tiny feet towards Rob's crack.
When we where abbing back down i was looking at Rob's Crack VS 4c and it looked really nice. So when I got to the bottom I decided that it would be an awesome solo.
The route had bomber hand jams all the way up, from a distance it looked polished, but it wasn't!
Joe then got on what seemed like the scariest route of the day, an E1 near Rob's crack called Smell the Glove. Lots of run out at the start and traversing across on tiny feet towards Rob's crack.
When we where abbing back down i was looking at Rob's Crack VS 4c and it looked really nice. So when I got to the bottom I decided that it would be an awesome solo.
The route had bomber hand jams all the way up, from a distance it looked polished, but it wasn't!
Author Soloing Rob's Crack VS 4c
| Then to finish the day off i thought the route a few over looked really cool called One Leg Over, E3 5c. Started by going over a roof, (seen in right picture), where the first piece and last piece of decent gear is, before about 10metres before the top of the route. Fairy cave is awesome. My friends that where there also climbed some other awesome lower grade stuff. If you like slab climbing, it's definitely worth a visit! |  Author on the start of One Leg Over E3 5c |
Whats Happening At The Mo.....
Just moved back up to Rotherham, so super psyched for grit and the coming winter season!
Had a brilliant summer working for Land & Wave in Dorset, now bring on the future.
Just moved back up to Rotherham, so super psyched for grit and the coming winter season!
Had a brilliant summer working for Land & Wave in Dorset, now bring on the future.
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